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01 / 05
Young Americans Are Getting Happier

The Economist | Happiness & Satisfaction

Young Americans Are Getting Happier

“American youth are in the midst of a mental-illness epidemic. Few know this better than Daniel Eisenberg. In 2007 the UCLA health-policy professor, then at the University of Michigan, sent a mental-health survey to 5,591 college students and found that 22% showed signs of depression. Over the next 15 years as new students were polled this figure grew. In 2022, when more than 95,000 students at 373 universities were surveyed, a staggering 44% displayed symptoms of depression. Then, curiously, the trend reversed. In 2023 41% of students seemed depressed; in 2024, the figure fell again to 38%. Mr Eisenberg is cautiously optimistic. ‘It’s the first time that things are moving in a positive direction.'”

From The Economist.

Curiosities | Happiness & Satisfaction

Americans Are Grateful for and Inspired by Progress

“Americans are overwhelmingly grateful for past progress and view it as foundational to solving today’s challenges and advancing future progress.

Nearly nine in ten American adults (89%) said they feel grateful for the efforts and accomplishments of past generations that contributed to the quality of life they enjoy today. Similar proportions agree that historical stories about major breakthroughs, triumphs over adversity, and societal advancements give them reason to believe we can overcome today’s biggest challenges, and that studying historical turning points when humanity made significant advances can provide valuable guidance for building a better future. In addition, a majority of Americans (83%) said thinking about the efforts and accomplishments of previous generations inspires them to make contributions that will benefit future generations.”

From Archbridge Institute.

Blog Post | Human Development

Grim Old Days: Roger Ekirch’s At Day’s Close, Part 1

Our ancestors battled fear, filth, and fatigue after nearly every sundown.

Summary: Before the invention of electric light and modern bedding, nighttime offered little peace for our ancestors. Historian A. Roger Ekirch’s book reveals a world where sleep was fragmented, beds were crowded (sometimes with people and livestock), and fears of crime, vermin, and supernatural forces kept many from true rest. Far from the romantic ideal of tranquil slumber in simpler times, preindustrial nights were noisy, stressful, and often more exhausting than restorative.


The historian A. Roger Ekirch’s book At Day’s Close: Night in Times Past provides a fascinating window into our ancestors’ world. The book provides insight into everything from the nocturnal dangers they faced, such as the threats of crime and fire, to their deeply uncomfortable sleeping arrangements.

It is easy to romanticize preindustrial sleep: Surely before modern vehicular traffic, nighttime was a quiet respite, and without the blue light of smartphone screens to stimulate their brains, our ancestors were able to sink into a deep, restful state of sleep each night. “Implicit in modern conceptions of sleep before the Industrial Revolution remains the wistful belief that our forebears enjoyed tranquil slumber, if often little else, in their meager lives.” Sadly, that was not the case. Before earplugs, neck pillows, white noise machines, ergonomic mattress designs, and other modern bedtime amenities, restful slumber was often evasive. Notwithstanding idyllic stereotypes of repose in simpler times, early modern slumber was highly vulnerable to intermittent disruption, much morе so, in all likelihood, than is sleep today.” In 1657, the British writer and Anglican priest George Herbert wrote that “manie [many people] worke hard all day, and when night comes, their paines increase, for want of food or rest.”

Most preindustrial people suffered from very high levels of stress, making it difficult to relax and sleep soundly. The 17th-century healer Richard Napier recorded over several decades that some 20 percent of his patients suffered from insomnia. “Popular dread of demons kept some persons awake,” while fears of all-too-real nocturnal dangers, such as thieves, made many sleep with a weapon within reach. People also dreaded nightmares, genuinely believing them to be potentially lethal attacks by evil spirits or witches; in 1730, a guide noted that “many a life has been lost by the night-mare.” In 1621, the physician Robert Burton described a common symptom of melancholia (roughly analogous to the modern concepts of anxiety and depression) as “waking, by reason of their continual cares, fears, [and] sorrows.” All social classes suffered nighttime disturbances due to poor mental health. “If, as early writers contended, the affluent suffered broken sleep because of mental stress, diverse psychological disorders, not least depression, afflicted the lower classes.” Of the urban poor in the early modern era, one observer noted, “They sleep, but they feel their sleep interrupted by the cold, the filth, the screams and infants’ cries, and by a thousand other anxieties.”

“Making matters worse were the narrow lanes separating early modern dwellings, with their thin walls, revealing cracks, and naked windows. Not until the eighteenth century did curtains adorn many urban portals, while in the countryside they remained a rarity.”

Bedsharing with family members and overnight guests was extraordinarily common; most ordinary people grew up sharing a bed with several siblings. Beds were expensive, often representing “over one-third the value of all domestic assets” in a modest household. “Inadequate bedding meant that families in the lower ranks routinely slept two, three, or more to a mattress, with overnight visitors included . . . Entire households of European peasants, numbering up to five or six persons, occasionally shared the same bed.” Even well into the industrial era, such arrangements continued in impoverished communities. Of early 19th-century Irish household sleeping configurations, it was said, “They lie down decently and in order, the eldest daughter next the wall farthest from the door, then all the sisters according to their ages, next the mother, father and sons in succession, and then the strangers, whether the travelling pedlar or tailor or beggar.”

Yet sleeping in a huddled mass was not the sole purview of the destitute. “Even well-to-do individuals, when separated from home, occasionally shared beds overnight,” and among ordinary peasants, bedsharing was a given. Sharing a bed with one’s servants was also quite common. “Female domestics, when sleeping with their mistresses, afforded protection at night from abusive husbands.” A noblewoman known as Madame de Liancourt advised her granddaughter not to share a bed with female servants, as such a practice “goes against cleanliness and decency,” blurring social boundaries and diminishing “respect.” Her attitude reflects how society’s upper crust often resented communal sleep and abandoned the practice as soon as rising general prosperity gave them the means to do so. “By the eighteenth century, communal sleep inspired widespread disdain among the gentle classes . . . In no other sphere of preindustrial life did a mounting appreciation for personal privacy among the upper ranks of society manifest itself more plainly.” The average person did not have the luxury to pursue higher standards of privacy in their sleeping arrangements.

In both urban and rural areas, “peasant families at night brought farm animals under their roofs” and slept huddled together for warmth. A British term for sharing a bed with many bedfellows was “to pig,” and in some cases, the bedfellows were literal swine. In 18th-century Wales, one observer claimed that in the homes of the common people, “every edifice” was practically a miniature “Noah’s Ark”—filled with a great variety of animals. “In Scotland and parts of northern Europe, curtained beds were built into walls, in part to allow animals additional room. According to a visitor to the Hebrides in the 1780s, the urine from cows was regularly collected in tubs and discarded, but the dung was removed just once a year.” One shudders to think of the barnlike smell that bedchambers took on, in addition to the chorus of barnyard sounds that filled every night. The hubbub “from frogs and katydids to barking dogs, lovesick cats, and needy livestock, not all of which grew familiar with time. In the dairy region of East Anglia, ‘bull’s noon was a common expression for midnight, the hour when bullocks, in full throat, bellowed for their mates. And vice-versa.”

A passage from the poem The Complaints of Poverty (1742) by Nicholas James describes the quality of sleep suffered by the impoverished masses:

And when, to gather strength and still his woes,
He seeks his last redress in soft repose,
The tatter’d blanket, erst the fleas’ retreat,
Denies his shiv’ring limbs sufficient heat;
Teaz’d with the sqwalling babes nocturnal cries,
He restless on the dusty pillow lies.

Animals and drunken commotions were frequent sources of nocturnal clangor. Because many farm animals such as cows and pigs were kept inside cities, the din of pigsties and lowing of cows cramped in small spaces mixed with the howling of dogs to create a tumultuous chorus. From cities to villages, nighttime brought a din of animal cries. “We lost our road,” wrote a traveler in early modern France, “and about midnight, directed by the sound of village dogs, dropt upon Fontinelle.”

Where night watchmen were tasked with keeping the noise level down, “some watchmen were even blamed for causing much of the noise nuisances at night themselves. [A character in a novel published in 1771] complained, ‘I start every hour from my sleep, at the horrid noise of the watchmen bawling the hour through every street, and thundering at every door; a set of useless fellows, who serve no other purpose but that of disturbing the repose of inhabitants.’ . . . In the Danish play Masquerades (ca 1723), by Ludvig Baron Holberg, the servant Henrich complains, ‘Every hour of the night they waken people out of their sleep by shouting to them that they hope they are sleeping well.’” Indeed, despite the clangor of numerous obnoxious sounds at night, “urban denizens reserved their sharpest annoyance for the nightwatch. Many residents never grew habituated to their cries.” Night watchmen were variously described as drunk, “decrepit,” and the “very dregs” of the “human race.” They were often viewed as incompetent or corrupt, “colluding with thieves.”

The majority of households did not dare rely on night watchmen to keep them safe. “Most households were armed, often more heavily than members of the nightwatch. Most domestic arsenals contained swords, pikes, and firearms, or in less affluent homes cudgels and sticks, both capable of delivering mortal blows.” People slept beside their weapons. “Once a family retired for the night, weapons were kept close.” Noblemen might sleep with a sword within reach, while ordinary people slumbered near less exalted weapons. “Valued as a club was the common bed-staff, a short, sturdy stick used in sets two on each side of a bed to hold-its covers in place.” For protection, households fashioned devices, such as shutters equipped with bells, to rouse sleeping inhabitants during a break-in. “Watchdogs prowled inside and out,” undoubtedly considered more reliable than watchmen by many. “It would be difficult to exaggerate the extent of popular contempt for nightwatchmen.” Businesses such as mills, stables, and warehouses hired private “watchers” or guards, as private security was more reliable than the public night watch.

“Between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries, European beds evolved from straw pallets on earthen floors to wooden frames complete with pillows, sheets, blankets, coverlets, and ‘flock’ mattresses, filled with rags and stray pieces of wool. . . . ‘Whether due to sleeping on a bed fouler than a rubbish heap, or not being able to cover oneself,’” a Bolognese curate observed of insomnia among the poor, ‘who can explain how much harm is done?’” The poorest slept on the earthen floors of their peasant dwellings, with a layer of straw as their only bed:

In Scotland and Ireland, entire families slept upon earthen floors strewn with rushes, straw, and heather. Not only was the cost of bedsteads prohibitive, but they occupied valuable space in cramped dwellings. Of the “better sort of cabins,” a visitor to Ireland found in the late 1600s, “there is generally one flock bed, seldom more, feathers being too costly; this serves the man and his wife, the rest all lie on straw, some with one sheet and blanket, others only their clothes and blanket to cover them. The cabins have seldom any floor but the earth.”

Dwellings in general provided more limited shelter from the elements than modern homes. In 1703, a man named Thomas Naish related how after being awakened by a rainstorm he was unable to return to bed “for the violence of the noise, ratling of the tyles, and for fear that my house would fall down upon me.”

Ill-constructed houses generated their own cacophony, owing to shrinking timber, loose boards, drafty doors, broken windows, and open chimneys. All of which inclement weather made worse. Not only did keyholes whistle, but hinges and bolts gave way, and roofs leaked.

Many went to bed late: “Numerous people toiled past nightfall, both in towns and in the country.” In a world of intense poverty, the “pressures of subsistence . . . drove workers to toil late hours. . . . Of course, some laborers must have collapsed after returning home barely able from numbing fatigue to consume an evening meal, especially in rural regions during the summer when fieldwork grew most strenuous.” In 1777, a doctor in south-central France described peasants “returning home in the evening, harassed by weariness and misery.”

No matter how profound their exhaustion, the people of the past had little choice but to keep working late into the night. “Often there were jobs at night to do, from butchering stock to chopping wood to picking apples, all labor-intensive tasks able to be performed in poor light.” The full moon that occurs closest to the autumnal equinox earned the name “harvest moon” because it provided illumination for farmworkers gathering their crops late into the evening.

In the Netherlands, “maidservants might not retire until two or three o’clock” at night. Bakers began their work at night in order to provide freshly baked goods in the morning. A pamphlet from 1715 in Paris by journeymen bakers fumed, “We start our days in the evenings, we knead the dough at night; we have to spend all night in captivity. Night, the time of rest, is for us a time of torture.” Weavers and lacemakers were among the workers who often labored by candlelight:

“On long winter evenings, from Sweden to the Italian peninsula, mothers, daughters, and servants turned their hands to spinning wheels or looms.” Seemingly “every peasant at night [was] a weaver, some so poor that they relied upon moonlight to card wool.” “In the Fast Anglian city of Norwich, according to a census in the early 1570s, 94 percent of poor women performed textile work of some sort.”

All women were expected to stay up late working. “The good huswive’s [housewife’s] candle never goeth out,” remarked the writer William Baldwin in 1584, capturing the popular notion that women should work at all hours. Such attitudes were stable for centuries. The Book of Proverbs describes an ideal wife similarly: “Her candle goeth not out by night.” Preindustrial men, in contrast, often went to sleep at 9 p.m. or 10 p.m.

“Before bed, doors and shutters were double-checked.” Another pre-bedtime ritual was hunting for bedbugs and fleas and lice: Families combed the pests out of their hair, picked them out of beds, and plucked them off nightclothes. “Bugs were everywhere, especially given the proximity of dogs and livestock,” even in urban settings. Early modern Britons complained of “whole armies” of bugs attacking their night chambers.

Bedbugs plagued our ancestors in all seasons, but especially the warmer months. In areas of Europe with warmer climates such as Italy, tarantulas and scorpions also plagued households. The colonies of North America contended with mosquitoes and worse. “The Virginia servant John Harrower found a snake one night under his pillow.”

Rats and mice often joined the insect swarm in pestering our ancestors at night. “We might have rested, had not the mice rendezvoused over our faces,” a traveler in Scotland lamented in 1677. Such pests were infamously noisy. “Within some homes, most notoriously those with wooden frames fixed in the earth, such was the tumult created by rats and mice that walls and rafters seemed on the verge of collapse.”

“Bedding afforded notorious homes to lice, fleas, and bedbugs, the unholy trinity of early modern entomology. . . . Bedding rife with housemites triggered asthma.”

In colonial Delaware, one lodger trying to sleep captured a wide array of common complaints when he wrote of the “stink of the candle-snuff,” bugs, mosquitoes, the “grunting & groaning of a person asleep in the next room,” a “male bedfellow,” and the noise made by a cat.

“As if illness, foul weather, and fleas were not enough. There was yet another, even more familiar source of broken sleep in preindustrial societies”—a routine interval at night of wakefulness. For millennia, people slept in two distinct phases. Ekirch discovered this phenomenon through archival research and became the first historian to (co)author an article in the discipline of sleep science. For many preindustrial people, “biphasic sleep” was the norm.

The initial interval of sleep was called “first sleep.” Early classical writers such as Livy, Virgil, and Homer all invoked the term, as did numerous medieval and early modern writers. “After midnight, preindustrial households usually began to stir” and entered a routine period of wakefulness, sometimes called ‘the watch.’ . . . Some varieties of medicine, physicians advised, might be taken during this interval, including potions for indigestion, sores, and smallpox.” Women often used this window of time to tend children and “perform myriad chores.” Men also performed chores during this interval, such as Henry Best of Elmswell, who recorded tending to his cattle at midnight.

Unfortunately, many people used the interval to commit crimes. “At no other time of the night was there such a secluded interval in which to commit petty crimes: filching from dockyards and other urban workplaces, or, in the countryside, pilfering firewood, poaching, and robbing orchards.” Others still did not fully awake after their first sleep. “The French called this ambiguous interval of semi-consciousness dorveille, which the English termed ‘twixt sleepe and wake.’”

“Far from enjoying blissful repose, ordinary men and women likely suffered some degree of sleep deprivation, feeling as weary upon rising at dawn as when retiring at bedtime.” “Chronic fatigue . . . probably afflicted much of the early modern population.” Many laborers collapsed asleep from exhaustion during the day, prompting complaints of the working class’s tendency to nap: “‘At noon he must have his sleeping time,’ groused Bishop [James] Pilkington of the typical laborer in the late 1500s.” And a laborer’s days could start quite early, further limiting the opportunity for rest.

The Guardian | Charity & Aid

Acts of Kindness 10 Percent Higher than Before 2020

“The world experienced a ‘benevolence bump’ of kindness during the Covid-19 pandemic that has remained, with generous acts more than 10% above pre-pandemic levels.

The annual World Happiness Report found that in 2024, acts such as donating and volunteering were more frequent than in 2017–19 in all generations and almost all global regions, although they had fallen from 2023.

Helping strangers was still up by an average of 18% from the pre-pandemic era.

Prof Lara Aknin, a Canadian professor of social psychology and one of the report’s editors, said the number of people who reported helping strangers sharply increased in 2020 and the numbers had been sustained.”

From The Guardian.

Blog Post | Water & Sanitation

Grim Old Days: Robert Muchembled’s Cultural History of Odours in Early Modern Times

Putrid smells were a defining feature of the past that is now largely forgotten.

Summary: The preindustrial world was anything but fresh and clean, as historian Robert Muchembled reveals in his cultural history of odors. From the stench of slaughtered animals and overflowing latrines to suffocating city air and dubious perfumes made from animal secretions, early modern life was defined by overwhelming, often toxic smells. Despite their constant exposure, people did not become desensitized to the filth, and their desperate attempts to mask or combat foul odors often led to bizarre, ineffective, or even dangerous solutions.


French historian Robert Muchembled’s Smells: A Cultural History of Odours in Early Modern Times, as translated by Susan Pickford, describes what the preindustrial past smelled like in frightening detail.

Some entertain the idea that before industrialization and its “dark Satanic Mills“ belching smoke, the air was sweet and pristine. In reality, an “apocalyptic stench . . . formed the olfactory backdrop to many people’s lives.”

Air pollution is not a modern phenomenon. “The good old days are a myth. The towns and villages of Europe stank horribly in the days of yore.” While certain forms of air pollution are relatively recent, “the foul air of medieval towns” was suffocating.

Animals were being killed nonstop for food, hides, quack medicines, entertainment, and more. Hence “the reek of death constantly hung over towns and cities.” Sometimes the poor air quality even prompted appeals for change. “When the air became too grim to breathe,” outrage occurred. In 1363, several scholars and students at the University of Paris complained to the king about how butchers killed animals in their homes:

The blood and waste from the animals is thrown day and night into the Rue Sainte-Geneviéve, and on several occasions the waste and blood of the animals was kept in pits and latrines in their houses until it was corrupted and rotten and then thrown into that same street day and night, until the street, Place Maubert and all the surrounding air was corrupted, foul, and reeking.

Muchembled quotes the French historian Henri Sauval (1623–1676) describing Paris as “black, foul-smelling, its stench unbearable for those from elsewhere; it stings the nostrils from three or four leagues distant.” Many causes of foul odors besmirched the air. “The noisy, dirty, crowded streets were home to more and more polluting trades, well before the Industrial Revolution.” For example:

Certain trades were a major source of noxious emissions for their immediate neighbourhood, including butchers, tripe makers, fishmongers, potters (who deliberately left their clay to sour in cellars in Paris and elsewhere), and painters who used pigments made from metal oxides. The worst were tanners, glove- and purse-makers, and fullers, who made abundant use of toxic plant and animal substances as mordants, like alum, tartar and soda, urine (often collected from humans), chicken droppings and dog excrement, which accelerated the process of fermenting and rotting the fibres they worked with.

Poor storage of human waste and the remains of slaughtered animals alike affected the quality of city air. Only in 1760 were the massive sewage dumps in Faubourg Saint-Germain and Faubourg Saint-Marceau moved some two and a half miles outside Paris to combat the “foul air” they caused. Another Parisian dump site, which remained operational until 1781, was infamous: “Its ten hectares of cesspits full of fermenting sewage and its slaughterhouse piled high with rotting carcasses could almost have been something out of Dante’s Inferno.”

Parisians complained that “noxious emissions from the boats [transporting sewage] were tarnishing and bleaching their silverware, gilding and mirrors.” Many homes abutted towering dung heaps, prompting the Italian physician Bernardino Ramazzini (1633–1714) to observe that “the air they live in must be polluted with the foul vapours that rise constantly.” Many prominent minds were deeply troubled by air quality affected by insufficient sanitation systems. “The noxious vapours of excrement were the main concern of hygienists in the reign of Louis XVI.” The smell of sewage was everywhere. “A French royal edict in 1539 complained of the “‘mud, dung, rubble and other rubbish’ piled up outside people’s doors and blocking the streets, despite earlier royal decrees.”

The night soil men who cleaned the sewer dump sites sometimes even died from the smell. “Fatal suffocation was a real risk on opening a latrine. . . . The rotting excrement released a dangerous, fetid sewer gas called ‘mofette’ . . . or ‘plomb’ (the French term for lead, as the symptoms were thought to be similar to those of lead poisoning). . . . Cases of fatal sewer gas poisoning among night soil men remained a cause for medical research throughout the nineteenth century. . . . In 1777, the king [of France] appointed a commission of chemists to study the effects of mephitism, a disease which struck fear into the hearts of night soil men.” The sewer gases could kill directly or through incineration when they burst into flames. “The gas sometimes caught fire, as in Lyon in July 1749.”

Not to mention the stench of human corpses. “Then there was the smell of bodies buried in and around churches, often in shallow graves, before a 1776 decree banished graveyards to outside urban areas” in France. The situation before that decree was a nightmare. “Before the 1776 order to relocate France’s graveyards out of urban centres,” one writer complained of the “mephitic vapours” emitted by the country’s cemeteries into the surrounding cities.

Outside of cities, the air was not necessarily better. Indeed, the countryside our ancestors knew has been described as “a concentration of bad smells: sweaty livestock, poultry droppings, rotting rat carcases, bodies living together in a single room, rubbish hidden in dark corners, and combustible fumes steaming from the dung heap outside the door.” Bizarrely, rural people sometimes took pride in the filth and used “the height of dung heaps as a measure of wealth.”

One might imagine that noses were dulled from the constant assault on the senses. Yet despite being used to “the terror of omnipresent putrid smells” that did not happen: “In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the extraordinary stench in towns and cities and at court did not weaken people’s sense of smell.” In other words, “The local population’s sense of smell, long accustomed to the urban fug, was triggered afresh by unusual events such as unexpected flooding from the Isére or Drac rivers, which left behind a tide of ‘stinking mud, a mix of latrines and graves,’ as one observer wrote in 1733.”

Not only were our ancestors surrounded by horrific smells, but they themselves were often rather stinky. The frequency with which most ordinary people today bathe, wash their hands, and engage in other bodily cleansing would utterly bewilder their preindustrial ancestors, who often feared contact with water as a threat to health. In 16th-century France, “the culture set little store by cleanliness, water being considered dangerous.” Daily bathing would be seen as eccentric and possibly harmful. “The population should be imagined as filthy, crawling with vermin and scabies-ridden.” Muchembled quotes a French writer who described how in 1764 some people bathed just once a year, in accordance with tradition, while others had adopted the more modern habits of bathing once a week, fortnight, or month. When they did bathe, what passed for soap at the time would not pass muster today. One French work from 1764 contains several pages of “soap recipes liable to lead to rough, even wrinkly skin, being heavy on soda ash, quicklime and olive oil.”

Given their smelly surroundings and lack of basic personal hygiene, preindustrial people were certainly in need of a way to conceal the smell of their unwashed, often diseased bodies and stinking breath. Many turned to what they considered to be perfume, although a person today might not recognize the pungent concoctions as such. Most popular perfumes today smell like flowers, such as rose or jasmine, or other sweet things. The perfumes of the past were rather different and, in many cases, would not readily appeal to modern noses. “Heady perfumes painfully extracted from the sex glands of exotic creatures were used in extravagant quantities to hide the ever-present stink.”

“All sixteenth- and seventeenth-century perfumes were saturated with animal base notes made from glandular secretions.” Consider some of the most popular perfume ingredients. “Ambergris” came from the stomachs of sperm whales, “castoreum” from the abdominal sacs of beavers, “civet” from the anal glands of its namesake wildcat, and “musk” from glands between the navel and genitals of the Asian musk deer. In other words, perfume ingredients were far from sweet-smelling; “civet” in particular carried a fecal odor. “Without the [excrement] of martens, civets, and other animals, would we not be deprived of the strongest and best scents?” asked Sophia the Electress of Hanover (1630–1714) in a letter.

Other ingredients were added to these bases. Some are still beloved today, such as roses; others were less sweet. In 1522, among the perfume ingredients sold by a French apothecary were litharge (a form of lead), verdigris (which is mildly poisonous), asafoetida (colloquially known as “devil’s dung” for its fecal stench), and sulphur, which is commonly considered to smell like rotting eggs. Eau de millefleurs (“water of a thousand flowers”) was a pretty name given to a concoction derived from the urine or dung of a cow, although by the late 18th century, a less-repulsive version of this creation “made from cow pats, was later made from musk, ambergris and civet.”

Pigeon blood and goat bile were also acceptable perfume ingredients. Consider a text from 1686 by the French chemist Nicolas Lémery that advised unscrupulous perfumers on how

to make cheap ‘Western’ musk from small quantities of the original product: in the last three days of the moon, feed the blackest rough-footed pigeons you can then find with spike lavender seed and sprinkle them with rose water. Then feed them on beans and pills for fifteen days. Slit their neck on the sixteenth and catch the blood in an earthenware dish standing on hot ashes. Skim off the top, then crown each ounce with a drachma (one-eighth of an ounce, or 576 grains) of genuine oriental musk dissolved in spirits of wine. Add four or five drops of billy goat bile, leave the mixture to steep in good, hot horse manure, and warm it through again.

Such ingredients were common not only in perfume but also in many mainstream beauty treatments. A facial skin treatment promoted by the writer Pierre Erresalde in 1669 “consisted of calves’ feet, river water, white breadcrumbs, fresh butter and egg whites.” Keep in mind that rivers also often functioned as sewers at the time. Nicolas de Blégny, medical adviser to Louis XIV, the Sun King, recommended that the court women drink a broth that listed ox bile among its ingredients to improve their complexions. Other ingredients used in his recommendations include crushed snails, pearls dissolved in pork fat, frog sperm, and of course, lead. Another popular makeup sometimes made with a form of lead was “virgin’s milk,” which corroded the very skin it was meant to improve. “Virgin’s milk, used to whiten the skin, contained litharge, which was very harsh on the skin and deeply toxic.” Other beautifiers containing lead included “ceruse” and “vinegar of Saturn.”

Minor blemishes “were treated with silver sublimate, white lead and vitriol, while litharge was regularly recommended as a skin whitener. . . . One recipe called for a freshly killed white hen whose blood was to be rubbed on spots or freckles and left on to dry.” One French recipe for preventing a suntan (because pale skin was fashionable) called for “half a dozen whelps mixed with calf’s blood, pigeon droppings, a pigeon with its innards stripped out, the ‘blood of a male hare’ mixed with ‘an equal part of the urine from the person who is to use it’, and ox bile.”

The animal-based scents of ambergris, musk, and civet only fell out of favor around the mid-18th century, when flowery and fruit-based fragrances came into vogue. The preindustrial people’s tendency to douse themselves with “perfumes” consisting of animal secretions, toxins, and stinking ingredients to hide the powerful odor of their own unbathed bodies was not the sole use of perfume. Perfume was also used to fight the bubonic plague.

Many of our preindustrial forebears thought that the plague spread through foul air. In the town of Arras in France, in 1655, a rule banned feeding pigs, whose foul odor was thought to corrupt the air in a way that spread the plague. In 1604, a French physician complained that some peasants tried to prevent the plague by eating “cheese on an empty stomach.” In contrast, “mainstream advice [recommended that people] keep sniffing at a pomander, sprig of herbs or flowers, or a sponge dipped in vinegar and rose water when out walking.” Many ordinary people used pomanders for this purpose. “The fashion for pomanders was by no means limited to the aristocracy or the wealthy. It was perfectly possible to make one simply by sticking cloves into an orange or lemon or even a ball of clay with various scents kneaded into it.” Ordinary people, in other words, often used them.

Other physicians advised rubbing “genuine scorpion oil” over the body on the theory that “one venom or poison often cures or drives out another.” Foul smells were thus thought to offer protection against the plague, which was itself theorized to derive from putrid air. The cures of physicians often closely resembled folk remedies. “The doctor Jean de Renou wrote in 1624 that his colleagues were using rat droppings to treat kidney stones, dog dirt for throat infections, and peacock droppings for ‘falling sickness’ (epilepsy), while human excrement was ‘marvellously suppurative.’ . . . Madame de Sévigné used spirit of urine against rheumatism and the vapours. Some doctors believed that one cure for airborne contagion was breathing in an even fouler smell. . . . This was a serious medical opinion, not folk wisdom; its popularity among the poorest sections of society was doubtless due to the fact it was free.”

Many people seeking to ward off the plague thus “sniffed rotting cheese, drank their own urine, bred goats to keep their homes safe, and breathed in the air from privies first thing in the morning on an empty stomach. One German doctor was still recommending privy sniffing as late as 1680.” In Poland, some “fought the epidemic by throwing the stinking carcases of dogs, horses, cattle, ewes and wolves into the streets on the grounds that ‘the horrible stench drives out the pestilential air.’”

“Garlic and rue were considered to smell vile” and hence to offer protection against the plague. Rue-based perfume actually may have offered some protection because rue naturally repels fleas (a spreader of bubonic plague), but merely sniffing rue occasionally or placing rue in one’s mouth, as was sometimes advised, likely made no difference. The use of garlic, which does not repel fleas, was just as popular as a preventive measure—some physicians advised washing one’s hands and face with “garlic vinegar or rue.” One common concoction meant to drive plague contagion out of the air was “four thieves vinegar,” which counted garlic and rue among its ingredients, along with onion and the pungent asafoetida.

In 1624, the physician Jean de Renou advised, “Not only mainstream protections such as . . . scorpion’s oil” but also “unicorn horn, mercury, viper flesh . . . mummia (a medicine made from powdered mummies), the mythical bezoar” and many other bizarre, dangerous, or simply nonexistent things. (A bezoar is a hard mass of undigested matter sometimes found lodged in the gastrointestinal tracts of animals such as oxen and horses; these objects were widely believed to have magical healing properties in much of the preindustrial world, in areas as diverse as China and Europe). There were worse cures still, such as those offered by the physician Blégny (1652–1722):

Nicolas de Blegny also had several even more astonishing recipes to cure those suffering from the dreadful disease. Take, he wrote, large toads in the hottest July days, hang them upside down by a small fire, then dry them and their vomit in the oven. Grind them to powder to be shaped into small flat medallions. Sprinkle these generously with theriac and apply them over the heart in a pouch. The same result could be obtained by placing large toads in a pot over the fire, dissolving the resulting powder in white wine and drinking the mix in bed in the morning, leading to profuse sweating.

Even royalty were subjected to horrific, unscientific cures. Recall that de Blégny gave medical advice to Louis XIV and consider another recipe that the former recommended:

Dog excrement, ground and soaked in vinegar and plantain water, was, in Blégny’s expert opinion, an excellent remedy for diarrhoea when applied as a hot, if rather smelly, poultice. Nosebleeds needed a liquid blend of donkey droppings that were ground and mixed with plantain syrup, certainly intended to attenuate the taste and smell. Fresh pig’s droppings could also be dried on a fire-shovel, ground, heated and inhaled. It is interesting to think that the king, who hired the imaginative doctor in 1682, might have tried out some of his bold ideas.

Tobacco, with its strong odor, was also considered a miraculous cure for many ailments. Unsurprisingly, then, “tobacco also had a role to play in the fight against the Black Death.” In Europe, tobacco was among the scents frequently sniffed to ward off the bubonic plague and fight the putrid and omnipresent stench of toxic and occasionally lethal sewage gas. “In England, the night soil men described in Daniel Defoe’s 1720 Journal of the Plague Year followed medical advice to the letter, working with garlic and rue in their mouths and smoking scented tobacco.”